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Help & Information

Please contact us immediately at OregonHighSpores@gmail.com if you experience any difficulties, so that we can refund/replace.

** Please avoid any talk of cultivation or substances. It puts me in a legal bind and I am better able to help if you could please refrain. **

My domestic specimen deposits ("spore prints") are taken in lab-grade environments by professional mycologists. Wild specimen deposits are from choice fruits that are free from rot, bugs, and infection. Specimen containers are utilized to avoid cross-spore contamination. If you're ever in doubt, CONTACT ME. I'll send a replacement.

I have been trading spores worldwide for six years now and always err on the side of caution because all sorts of weird stuff happens. Sometimes deposits are sterile ("dead"), bacterial, or otherwise biologically unavailable - and thus, unobservable.

Sometimes, a print just sucks, and those prints can make it into solution, so PLEASE REACH OUT to OregonHighSpores@gmail.com so we can work towards a solution together.

Please avoid telling me about your bad habit of juggling and jaywalking, or anything else illegal (yes even weed in your legal state, please just refrain completely).

What color should my spore syringe be?

Your spore syringe will take on the color of the dominant color in your spore print. Some may appear bright violet, others near-black, and various permutations of purple-tan. Panaeolus will be jet black and Gymnopilus will be bright orange. Some colors look heavier than others, and some color spores can be added all day and appear to make no difference in the sporeload. It is a battle between multiple factors; species, genus, variety, heaviness of deposit, how it was dried, how long it took to dry, how far apart the gills were, and a laundry list of other variables.

Should I see clumps of spore syringes in my water?

The optimal spore solution is 100% dissolved thoroughly in sterilized distilled water. You are aiming for purple/black water with small flecks, NOT giant massive clumps. Massive clumps will break down into simple sugars, germinate, and the mycelium dies when it runs out of nutrition. It's the last thing we want to happen to our spores.

Spore syringes can vary depending on the type of water used. For example, distilled water commands 5-10x as many spores. Some vendors cheat by using hard tapwater and delivering very few spores, while making it seem their syringes are "loaded".

If you EVER doubt the efficacy of a syringe, print or swab purchased from us, please contact me immediately for a replacement or refund. 

Well, then how do you know how much spores to put into solution??

We add spores until they just about begin to fall out of solution. The biggest frustration is mixing 100mL and seeing great color that doesn't always translate to syringes.

My foil is discolored! What happened to my print?!

Discoloration is an unfortunate result of water during the sterilization process. Though it may appear unsightly, it's no big deal!

Why is my print tiny/massive?

Fungi come in all shapes, sizes and colors. Generally, the massive mushrooms we see examples of in domestic grows are not the norm out in the wild. Woodlovers, for example, grow in nutrient-poor grasslands and are generally very small mushrooms. The "Liberty Cap" - Ps semilanceata - is a tiny mushroom whose print could fit on your thumbnail. Ps tampanensis, which forms sclerotia under the ground, have very tiny caps and are generally very small mushrooms. The teacup sized prints are more the norm for cubensis and sturdy woodlovers grown in a nutrient-rich grassland or directly off of wood.

Please take note of the size of your item before purchasing - some prints can be very small and very hard to find, and more expensive doesn't always mean larger -- Thank you.

How long will my syringe last? My print/swabs?

You can break storage down into two camps: 1) dry spores, 2) wet spores. Treat wet spores (solution) like a food item and store as close to freezing as possible. Ice crystals will shred the cells, so we like to recommend anything below 50 degrees that isn't freezing. Dry spores, such as prints and swabs, need to remain in a cool dark place away from light, heat and water. Ideally, a sealed plastic bag with a desiccant packet stored in a drawer that isn't too hot.

While you may get 8-10 years out of a domestic cubensis print, you may see 2-4 years on wild Psilocybe storage and 6 months for spore solution.

We store our prints in small plastic containers with desiccant packs, and break apart our inventory so we are not constantly opening and closing the same containers.

I don't know how to tell you my item was bad.

You can just tell me that your spores were not suitable for your needs. That's it. I'm not in the business of asking questions about your personal life, so just let me know what I've gotta do to make good on it, and we are set!

Please contact me as soon as possible so we can work out a refund or replacement: OregonHighSpores@gmail.com

Please avoid telling me about your bad habit of juggling and jaywalking, or anything else illegal (yes even weed and speeding, please just refrain completely).

What microscope should I get?

Amscope makes some real solid work horses and you can find these in university bookstores used, or find them in college towns after the semester is over. They offer digital imaging with USB connectivity starting as low as $100. I recommend binocular scopes to beginners, as to avoid catching the bad habit of closing one eye.

Wear eye protection when working with glass. It WILL save your eyesight WHEN you drop a glass slide or eyepiece.

 

Please let me know if there is any additional information that you'd like to see here.